In Defense of Food
by Michael Pollan
(244 pages, $21.95, hardcover)
reviewed by John Schwenkler
Do not eat the kind of food that “injures a man, deteriorates his spirit, and renders his body prone to disease,” but “eat that [you] may live.” So, sounding very modern, said Clement of Alexandria in the early third century.
Twenty-first-century Americans have, unfortunately, learned all too well the dangers of ignoring such insights. But what if the remedies promoted in our culture—the food pyramid, recommended daily allowances, low-fat diets, and all the rest—are misshapen? What if the modern science of food has made us worse eate . . .